stainless steel brake lines question

[Beefmaster_Mark]

I know someone here has installed ss brake lines (April?  Jim?).  I have a set of Galfer front ss lines and new sintered pads for my FZ6 - looking to get a little more bite out of the front brakes. 

Do I need a vacuum brake bleeder, or can I do it with my cheapo bleeder kit?  To me, it looks like I just drain the stock lines into a jar, carefully remove the old lines and pads, install the new ones and then essentially fill the lines with new fluid from the reservoir, and "bleed" the new lines as if I was bleeding them normally.

A friend of mine said the vacuum thing is absolutely essential.  It's only $35, I suppose I could get one. 

Also, riddle me this - I changed my oil to synthetic probably 5,000 miles or so ago.  Ray and I have a track day coming up in a month - should I wait until after track day to change the oil, or do it before?

[JimT]

I would change the oil before the trackday.

I have never used the vacuum bleeder, so I would say you don't need it.

First go to Home Depot and buy some clear tubing that will fit over the end of the bleeder screws. Unbolt the master cylinder, unscrew the top, and dump all the old fluid out. Then bolt it back on.

Now grab a pair of vice grips, pinch the lines shut down by the calipers and unbolt them. Then wrap the ends with a plastic bag and rubber band. That will keep the fluid from going everywhere. Now get them out of the way.

Install your new lines, don't over torque the bolts.

Fill your Master with fluid, and leave the cap off. Put the tubing over the ends of the bleeder screws, and the other end in a suitable container. Open up both bleeder screws and wait till fluid starts to flow out them. Now tighten both back up.

Now pump the lever. Hold it down and crack the farthest bleeder screw. Continue until you see no air bubbles in the clear lines. Make sure to be careful not to run the Master Dry.

When you do the pads, use some fine sandpaper to  remove the old pad material off the rotors. Put some miles on the brakes before the trackday, they will work much better once they are broken in.

[Beefmaster_Mark]

Awesome, thanks Jim!  I will have to give it a try soon.

And I will change the oil and filter before the track day - thanks.

[rwalterk]

haha let me know how the brake line bleeding goes.  I need to get some stainless steel lines myself since the manual recommends replacing the stock ones at 4 years.

[Beefmaster_Mark]

I finally did this today.  It was as easy as Jim suggested. 

I learned that I should not depress the caliper pistons without pointing the inlet hole toward a worthy container.  I shot a bunch of fluid onto the driveway. 

The feel is MUCH better than the stock setup, I can't wait for the pads to actually break in as you mentioned, Jim.  I did sand the rotors some, but already the brakes have such better feel and power.