JC's Restoration Thread

[JC]

Hard Times!

The first day back after my vacation was met by stiff resistance from my carbs.   I began working on disassembling the #2 carb....  First to remove the diaphragm cover.... Piss.  Stripped screw.  Turn phillips into flat head with Dremmel.  There we go.  OK.  Slide and diaphragm removed.  Next remove the air screw....

Air screw stripped.  Swell.  Its in a recessed hole.  No dremmeling.  1 hour later, after drilling into it and trying to use a screw extracter, the pressure overwhelmed the carb body.  Crack.  Doh.

Moved on to #3 and cleaned with few issues.

Was able to purchase a rack of three carb bodies (#1,2,and 3) for 15 bucks.  Worked out best in the end, as it also has several external pieces which will replace some of my badly corroded ones.   Two carbs to go.

[pshaw118]

Half the fun of a restoration is finding good deals on the parts that you want to replace, but replacing something that you break is not so much fun. 

I'd love to hear that beast roar when you get her carbs cleaned out.  As always, let me know if you need any help.

[JC]

Will do!  It sounded kind of sickly but I think I just about have it figured out.   Once the carbs are done and synched, and the valves are adjusted, this thing ought to rip.

Electrical's after that. thats some scary stuff lol

[pshaw118]

tell me about it.  If you have electrical problems, I don't know how much help I can be.  I'll pretty much point at stuff and make things up so you think that I know what I'm talking about.

[JC]

Son of a bitch.  The #4 carb air screw is stripped (I didnt do it)  Looks like the prev owner tried to drill it out and then just gave up.   This is bad news.  Anyone friendly with any machinests?   

[pshaw118]

The #4 carb air screw is stripped (I didnt do it) 

lol

[JC]

Wow I haven't posted since May 9?

I completed cleaning and reassembling the carbs.  I even polished the disphragm covers.  Looking good.  Tonight I completed adjusting the valves.... all 16 of them ( )   Replaced the breather cover gasket since the old one was on the out.  Realized this is the location of previous massive oil spill.  Potential piston ring blow back?  Not good.  I'll monitor it once its running.

Which brings me to...

Running!  Almost there.   Waiting on a valve cover gasket to replace the worn one.  Once that's done I can torque it down, reattach the carbs and airbox, and let her rip!   The goal will be to perform the following two steps:

1. Adjust carb air screws to highest RPM while continually lowering idle adjust knob to keep it at 1200 after each asjustment
2. Synchronize carbs

I'm still waiting on the carb synch tool. Stupid ron ayers.

[JC]

And I pulled out my original game plan just to see how much I've deviated as a fun little exercise in the realization that every battle plan goes away in the first 5 minutes of battle...

1) Figure out why it isn't starting (suspect battery)
2) Wash off grease so I know what I'm looking at
3) Test engine compression so I know I'm not working on a lemming.  If so, part it out, try again.
4) Carbs.  Remove, clean/soak, rebuild, rejet.  Add K&N pods to replace airbox.   
5) Evaluate how engine is running. Diagnose and fix any other problems leading to engine not running right.
6) Routine maintenance -  Chain, oil and oil filter, fluids
7) Valve adjustment
8 ) Check fuel lines and petcock, as well as other rubber hoses
9) Test transmission
10) Torque down top end to alleviate head gasket seepage.  Replace gaskets if need be.
11) Replace Fork seals
12) Replace rear shocks.  Evaluate front shocks.
13) Test all electrical, Replace turn signals
14) Seafoam the tank.

1. Done
2. Done
3. Done
4. Done - K&Ns skipped. Stock airbox kept for reliability
5. How general was this? Found #2 not firing, think I identified the issue, will find out soon
6. To Do
7. Done
8. To Do
9. To Do
10. Done
11. To Do
12. To Do
13. Process initiated.  Rectifier/Regulator bad? Will be next step after engine probs sorted.
14. Attempted using phosphoric acid. Will attempt another treatment. Else retreat to radiator shop.

[AP]

If you have any problems with rust try out Rusteco.

[JC]

Cool thanks!  Will look it over for sure 

[JC]

Last 3 weeks update:

Airbox was too warped to be reliable.  I went with the K&N pods afterall and performed a stage 3 rejet.  A new 4-1 pipe is on order with Leo.   The First start proved to be somewhat upsetting.  Neither 2 nor 4 were firing.  After some twiddling (I really did nothing of substance, just rebuilding) #2 fired out of nowhere!  YAY!

#4 is still iffy. Won't fire at all on idle.  Just got it to connect at 4000 rpms with tremendous backfiring, so a little more work to do there!


After this I'm holding off on any more mechanical updates.  Pops is anxious to get it broken down for cosmetic work and work with items as we remove them.  I'm inclined to agree.  Electrical problems will be left for the final rebuild.

[pshaw118]

That's great news.  You have tons of usable metal on that thing.  Lots of polish and elbow grease should work wonders for you.  I can't wait to see the beast when it's finished.

[JC]

Hadn't updated this in two months.  My work schedule has been pretty crazy traveling to and from Houston every week so progress has been slow.  Carbs still haven't been completely sorted out but we got tired of tweaking them for now so we went ahead with the tear down.   The pic isn't completely up to date, but it's pretty close to where we currently are.   The gauges have seen been removed.  All we need to do now is pull the engine, the front calipers, and to remove the forks/wheel and rear wheel.  Yay!

[JC]

 

[zerog]

that's one NAKED bike.  doesn't look very comfortable going over bumps on that thing.  Well, doesn't look very comfortable sitting on it either. 

Edit:  On the other hand, that's the ultimate weight reduction